Thursday, March 6, 2008

The Ying and the Yang

Every now and then you’re lucky enough to experience a couple of days in your life that stay with you and remain etched in your memory. You revisit these moments and they shape you in ways you might not recognize at the time. And when I look back, they often have a fuzzy, surreal quality to them. Sometimes they involve personal growth and other times they’re just alcohol filled, sun-soaked days that draw you closer to those around you or make you realize something important about life. For me, these times have always been experienced through a deep connection with friends, family, or people you meet while traveling but forge a real bond with nonetheless. For me, traveling is all about capturing these experiences and feelings.

In late November, I had one of those weeks.

Through my boss at Habitat, I got an e-mail from someone looking for people to serve as bilingual tour guides for 4 days in Guanacaste. An organization in Costa Rica that puts together volunteer vacation tours for small international groups. This time however, the client was a major company that wanted to bring 150 plus of its employees down to do volunteer work and team-building and corporate development. They needed to hire about 12 additional bilingual staff for this project. Enter Chris. I sent in my resume and my supervisor gave me the week off and I was in. The pay was great but the icing on the cake was the all-inclusive hotel we stayed at.

The company (we’ll call it Acme so I don’t have to keep referring to it as “The Company”) is big on social responsibility and also wanted to use volunteering as a means to promote a greater sense of cohesion. Acme is a large fragrance and taste company that creates everything from perfumes (apparently companies like Dolce and Gabana don’t actually make their fragrances, they contract that out) to the flavor of sports beverages and toothpaste. Most of its staff is based in France, the U.S. and to a lesser degree Latin America. Recently Acme purchased one of its main competitors so the company is really two organizations that merged but with very distinct corporate cultures. Part of the idea behind bringing the staff to Costa Rica was to break down the cliquish nature of the France and American staff. This differences between both groups were palpable and interesting. If you’re still reading this, thank you. It’s boring but critical to have some relevant context.

Our group left at the crack of dawn from San Jose on a Sunday. It was a random collection of people differing in age and background. It included bilingual tour guides, facilitators for the team-building sessions, and support staff that coordinated logistics. In all there were 19 of us.

After driving all morning we arrived at the Paradisus Resort in Playa Conchal. I had read about it in my LP Guide and the description didn’t do it justice. As I passed the golf course on the way in, I wondered whether it would live up to the hype. It’s a sprawling complex that is perfectly manicured and houses 8 restaurants, a golf course, a couple of bars, several pools, a conference center, a day spa, and bungalows and hotel complexes, as well as residences. It has that plastic Disney feel; every little detail just so, every space clean, every tree perfectly manicured, everything over the top. Having lived and traveled in Costa Rica for several months now, the contrast with everything else I’ve experienced is that much sharper and surreal. The resort consists mostly of two story bungalows and a VIP building laid out along the large complex and connected through asphalt trails.
The best way to picture the Paradisus is as a combination of a retirement community in Florida and a luxury cruise-liner. To top it off, it’s on one of the nices beaches in Costa Rica. A fleet of pick-up trucks turned taxis continually circulate throughout the complex and take you wherever you want to go, even if it’s 40 meters away.

I didn’t fully grasp the all-inclusive concept initially. The little wristband they give you is the key to all the food, alcohol and overindulgence you can handle. I gained about 9lbs in the 5 days I spent there!

There were several volunteer projects: building a nursery, painting a school, teaching environmental workshops to school children, and planting trees. I co-led a group of about 60 volunteers in the reforestation project with a Tico named Hector. At the last minute, the work site had to be changed because the original arrangement broke down so they had to scramble to find a new site. Luckily they did but planning and organization was sacrificed. Hector and I were given a brief tour of the site on Sunday and basically told, “Here’s 1000 trees, just plant them here, here, and there.” We worked at an animal rescue and refuge called Monkey Park. The goal was to help reforest the property that had previously been a ranch by planting fruit trees as a food source for the monkeys and other tree species for shade and shelter. But it wasn’t as simple as planting a tree somewhere, each tree had a specific spot in order for it to survive and serve its purpose. Unfortunately, there was only one person with a forestry background to guide us. Hector and I pulled through though and after two and half days of work our group had managed to plant 800 trees. I also learned about the importance of having food when leading a group of people in a project. Everything can go wrong but you can adapt and adjust, but if the food is late or isn’t sufficient or good, people will straight up murder your ass!

The cultural dynamic was quite interesting because of the strong differences between the French and American group. Individually, there were exceptions, but as a group, the French were far more demanding and difficult to deal with. There was always something wrong or not to their liking. I knew what we were in for when I picked up the first group at the airport. We brought a large bus with a staff member from the hotel to expedite the check-in process which included issuing everyone wristbands. Well someone from the French group didn’t want to put it on. I guess he felt it was tacky or didn’t match his stylish outfit. He finally acquiesced but only after much protest. I thought, your life must be pretty good if that’s what you’re going to complain about. The only cool place I got to visit in my last job was upper Montgomery County. This guy gets flown to an all-inclusive five star resort in a tropical paradise on the company’s dime for staff development and he’s in a crappy mood? Are you kidding me?

The Americans by contrast were much more relaxed and easy-going. I guess more of them realized that they had it pretty good.

The final night included a jungle rave party complete with a Cirque du Soleil type show, two Djs, fire jugglers, face-painters, fire works, and a Brazilianesque samba band. It was a nice way to end the experience.

After 5 days of planting trees, a canopy tour, some beach time, partying (part of staff development!), eating and drinking like a Roman, it was time for a return to some semblance of reality. A few of us from staff decided to spend a couple of days decompressing in Playa Grande, about 30 minutes south. It was the antithesis of the Paradisus. Playa Grande consists of a tiny community that attracts surfers from around the world. It’s also known as one of the nesting grounds of the Giant Leatherback turtle. It felt relieving to not be responsible for anyone except myself or waiting for the next activity. The day we arrived, we were lucky enough to witness a double rainbow and see one of the giant turtles lay eggs at night. A park ranger leads you along the beach and eventually you reach the main attraction. To behold this gentle giant depositing its genetic legacy on the beach with millions of bright stars as a backdrop is a moving experience. The trail they leave when they come to literally looks like car tracks. We stayed for a couple more days and I got to practice my surfing and enjoy the spectacular sunsets. It was the perfect counterpoint to the Paradisus.

Pura Vida!































Sunday, January 27, 2008

New and Improved!

At the beginning of September Kate and I moved into a new place. Despite the 1 minute walk to our office, we decided to move after a large sum of cash and other items were missing. The scariest/funniest part is that we (and by we I mean ¨I¨)concluded that the complex “guard” was the culprit. There were many factors that led us to this conclusion, the main one being that none of the break-ins showed signs of forced entry (i.e. whoever was responsible had a copy of the keys). Luckily my lap top, ipod, and passport weren’t stolen. Besides, I considered the theft a spontaneous financial contribution to the local economy. If I can reach just one person, than I’ve done my part!

In any case, our new apartment is still within walking distance to work. It’s also bigger, safer, and gets a ton of natural light so it all worked out in the end. When it’s clear the mountains frame our living room and we get some beautiful sunsets. The bags and pillows on the couch are a tactic I’ve devised to prevent the cat from getting on the couch. It works quite well even though we have to explain it to every new guest.

One of the pictures shows Kate presiding over the turkey she made for Thanksgiving day. We had a group of friends from Habitat and elsewhere over for the event which included mashed potatoes, mashed sweet potatoes, stuffing, pumpkin pie and apple pie. The only thing missing was watching the Detroit Lions lose on Thanksgiving day, as much a part of my Turkey Day memories as eating too much.

We had Rigo and has family over. Rigo is the defacto official Habitat taxi driver, but he´s more of a friend to Kate and I. He´s become to many of us at the office what in another country and context would be termed a ¨fixer.¨ He knows where to get the best deals on anything from furniture, to cars, to tours, who to call for what, etc. Apart from being incredibly helpful, he´s also one of the nicest people I´ve ever met. It was hard to explain the traditon of Thanksgiving to him and his family. There is of course the traditional narrative which is fine when you´re 10 years old. But after reading ¨A People´s History of the Unites States of America¨ or just having a basic understanding of U.S. colonial history, that narrative is about as believable as Santa Claus. So we told him the supposed history of Thanksgiving but then added that it didn´t exactly play out that way but that the important part was that it was a special time to give thanks and share with one´s family, which is the crux of it anyways.

Pura Vida!












In Search of Sun

Apologies for not updating the blog more. Since I had the following e-mail exchange with a friend today I've decided to get back into the blog with more gusto (I've always wanted to drop that word in somewhere):

Anonymous friend: "Schunk: your website sucks. it never gets updated. i'm deleting it from my bookmarks."

Me: "Yeah I agree. If I post something today you have to put it back in your bookmarked pages. Word."

Anonymous friend: "Ok. But you have to increase the pics of poeple and decrease the pics of beaches. i'm tired of beaches. I want to see more party pictures or just random day at the market pics. thank you. also, include a link to stuff white people like."

Unfortunately I only obliged said friend on one of his requests but I'm going to make an effort to show more people pics, promise. Also, feel free to post a random word and/or obscure word and I'll try to incorporate it into my next post.

The height of the rainy season in San Jose was an all-encompassing phenomenon. This year was apparently worse than normal and there were several mudslides and floods that caused scores of casualties throughout the country. It´s one thing to hear about the rainy season but it´s quite different to experience it everyday for several months. It takes a mental toll, especially if it´s your first time (and made worse by not having a car). The saving grace is that it´s not cold, but waking up to rain and falling asleep to the sound of rain were slowly sucking the life force from me. I wondered if this was what Finnish people felt like during winter. Combined with the fact that a bunch of the volunteers that I had become friends with finished in September, I needed to get out of San Jose and get some sun. Luckily the Caribbean side has great weather during the rainy season and I met up with Dieter and Kate, interns at the Dutch and English embassies respectively. Nothing too interesting to report other than the fact that I learned that after you’ve downed half a bottle of rum, putting more stuff in your system is not a viable option. I was also reminded of how exponentially worse hangovers are if you’re traveling. I did get to bask in the sun which made it all worth while, especially since one more weekend sans sun and they would’ve had to talk me down from the ledge at the office. Lastly, here's the link to a blog that highlights the various esoteric tastes of white people: http://stuffwhitepeoplelike.wordpress.com/

Pura Vida!