Tuesday, August 21, 2007

Montezuma













Almost at the very bottom of the Nicoya Peninsula, lies Montezuma, a small beach town with a laid-back vibe and popular with foreign backpackers and young tourists. Which is to say that smoking pot is a popular pastime here. It was a long weekend and one of the Habitat volunteers (Nicola) and I decided to take a trip there. The trip consists of a two and half hour bus trip to Punta Arenas, an hour and half ferry ride, and an hour plus bus ride along bumpy and winding roads. That’s assuming there’s no traffic or adverse weather conditions.

We arrived at night and grabbed a bite to eat and a beer before promptly passing out. The morning rain led us to hike the well-known waterfalls, hoping that the afternoon would bring some sun to enjoy the beach. There are three sets of waterfalls that can be accessed from a trail that starts a couple hundred meters from town. Well it starts out as a trail anyway. At some point we weren’t sure if we were on the right trail until we ran into a local who told us that we had to walk in the river bed, which was running fast and brown from the recent rains. After about an hour, we managed to make it to the waterfalls, but it was too dangerous to jump off, as people often do. We saw a coral snake and took some pictures before heading back.

Although the sun didn’t come out, we still managed to get in some quality beach time along a picturesque stretch north of town. We also met a funny group of Canadians that we met for dinner later. The food in Montezuma was quality. Unfortunately, restaurants close fairly early and there’s only main bar to hang out in. And the music is unbelievably loud. But nightlife isn’t anywhere high on the list of Costa Rican attractions, especially when compared to Uruguay, where people often stay out until 9am during the summer months (I’m not exaggerating on this point. In fact, this past February, my cousin’s friends left to go out dancing at 5am!). Also thought it was interesting that there's no ATMs in town.

The next day we took a bus to the Cabo Blanco nature reserve. It’s at the southernmost tip of the Nicoya Penininusla and represents Costa Rica’s first protected wilderness area. A Scandinavian couple whose efforts led to the creation of the national park system helped establish the reserve. It has a couple of trails through lush jungle that lead into stunning and empty white sand beaches. Unfortunately, I failed to read the guidebook, which said that the hike to the beach requires two hours each way, which was out of the question if we were to catch the last bus. So we hiked a bit through the muddy and ant-filled trail before heading back to town and enjoying the last of our beach time. I definitely plan on making it back to the nature reserve and trekking to the beach. The return of students from holiday meant that the trip back took over six hours and included the presence of inebriated and loud (but friendly) students on the bus -the price to pay for a great weekend.

Pura Vida!

Monday, August 13, 2007

Road Trip

After a week in San Jose I flew back to Quepos to meet up with my uncle Luis for a road trip to the Osa Peninsula. We rented a 4x4 and headed south Saturday morning with no particular endpoint and the aim of stopping wherever looked interesting. The stretch of road from Quepos to Dominical is only about 40km long but it takes about an hour and half to negotiate because it’s littered with water filled potholes/craters. According to Lonely Planet, the municipality of Quepos has deliberately avoided paving the road to discourage tourists from leaving Quepos to go to Dominical, the closest tourist destination. It’s actually a fun of a drive though (unless you’re hung over or have internal bleeding), kind of like a video game, especially when you’ve taken out car insurance and aren’t worried about the long-term effects on the vehicle.

In addition to the quality of the roads, the precariousness of what are euphemistically referred to as bridges in that area significantly slow the journey down. To start with, there’s the narrowness of some of the bridges. Then there’s the fact that a majority of them simply consist of metal planks strewn across an incongruous surface. This doesn’t deter 18 wheel trucks from inching along at a snail’s pace and paralyzing traffic. I guess the recent bridge collapse in Minnesota (gratuitous plug for my friend’s op-ed on the tragedy: http://www.fpif.org/fpiftxt/4461) shows that crappy bridges aren’t limited to the developing world though.

Once you get to Dominical though it’s smooth sailing along a picturesque winding road that parallels the coastline like the pacific coast highway in California. We stopped at Punta Uva, Dominical, and a bunch of other random beaches, each one beautiful in its own way. After crossing into the Osa Peninsula, we ended up driving to Puerto Jiminez and staying in an eco-lodge. The hotel consisted of elevated cabins in the middle of the rain forest with no walls, just mosquito screens and no electricity, just candles. It was like sleeping outside with all of the sounds of the forest. We had dinner and promptly passed out, waking up to the sounds of howler monkeys and a torrential deluge in the morning. The trip back to Quepos took 6 hours and took us through some more spectacular scenery.

¡Pura Vida!

A link to a map showing Quepos and Puerto Jimenz: http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://costa-rica-guide.com/Costa-Rica-Map-large.jpg&imgrefurl=http://costa-rica-guide.com/fr_maps.htm&h=1222&w=1280&sz=225&tbnid=Lt2HnAYr-CNUSM:&tbnh=143&tbnw=150&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dmap%2Bof%2Bcosta%2Brica%26um%3D1&start=2&sa=X&oi=images&ct=image&cd=2